When it comes to marking a notable movement in the dining scene of Australian cities, Brisbane has found its rightful place in the top ranks, thanks to a wave of new entrepreneurs that have decided to re-write the rules to forge something that feels unique to the Queensland capital. The result is a finessed growth in quality and confidence in Brisbane delivering places and experiences that are ‘of’ now, and drawing a huge national crowd to the City.
Restaurateurs including Ty Simon and Frank Li (behind Agnes, Honto, Same Same, Bianca, and the newly-opened Agnes Bakery), have almost unwittingly created a newer, more easy-going culinary identity for Brisbane alongside a simple vernacular of white walls, bricks and ample shade and breeze. The trick, has been bypassing the pomp of older restaurants for a cheerier brand of service and a menu woven from the city’s mix of migrant cultures, many of which arrived here from the Mediterranean and Southeast Asia.

In the past, Brisbane took its culinary cues from elsewhere. Many restaurants opted for heavy European-inspired dishes, thickly carpeted dining rooms and starched white tablecloths. It was an odd approach for a city in the sub-tropics that boasts upwards of 280 days of sunshine a year and has great regional produce.
Having shaken off the shackles of an imported eating culture, over the last 2 years, Brisbane has seen a significant rise in its tourism economy led majorly by a new category of national tourism – Destination Diners.
In 2020, the city welcomed Agnes, SK Steak & Oyster, Maya, Kid Curry, Ping Pong, La Patrona – and that’s barely scratching the surface. The year built on an already bumper 2019 that saw the opening of Maeve Wine, Baja, Stanley, Za Za Ta, Yoko Dining, Joy, Same Same, Mosconi, and Nota.

The James Street Precinct, in particular is a successful case study for Brisbane, as it led the way with attracting not only the Destination Diner, but also the permanent Migrator from Southern States, who otherwise would never have considered Brisbane as a Tourism destination, or a place to live. Southerners would tend to opt for a destination like Byron Bay or Noosa instead.

The Precinct brings to Brisbane much of the retail panache and diversity one finds in Australia’s more established blue-ribbon neighbourhoods, such as Double Bay in Sydney or Brighton, South Yarra and Toorak in Melbourne. The taste of James St therefore is very familiar to southern migrators, and they naturally gravitate towards the locale – being New Farm, Teneriffe, and Newstead.
Ty explains – “There are so many amazing people coming from Sydney and Melbourne and staying at The Calile [on James St], coming to our restaurants, dining at 9:30pm… We ask, what are you doing here and they say we are here for a holiday AND looking to move up here. The weather is fantastic and there is finally things to do.”
The decisive way hospitality operators like Ty have stuck to the one particular precinct, rather than multiple hubs throughout the city has contributed greatly to James St becoming a brand unto itself.
Traditionally, restaurateurs would look to franchise their ‘expansion’ and increase their footprint to multiple parts of a City as the ultimate goal. The modern restaurateur has zero interest in doing this. Instead, they localise – continuing to increase their empire within a single precinct.
This sort of localism has been seen not only with Ty and Frank – having 5 venues all within a stone’s throw of each other. But across a suit of new generation restaurateurs, such as Simon Gloftis, owner of Hellenika and SK (both in The Calile), and soon-to-open ‘Sunshine’. The Votan Brothers – responsible for Happy Boy, Snackman and Kid Curry; and Paolo Biscaro – the man behind the Teneriffe institution, Beccofino’s and newly announced Gigi’s in Newstead.

Having weathered the fads, the new Generation are banking on repeat customers, the loyalty of locals, and destination diners. And despite the economic uncertainty caused by the pandemic, the mood in Brisbane’s hospitality scene remains astonishingly upbeat. A confidence in the commercial curation of an area, and a strong local property market that is poised to withstand the growing demand from the Southern Migrators is the winning formula.